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Return to Virginia Business - May 2002

Pass the Bourbon, Suh

Don't spill your mint julep, but Virginia is one of the top bourbon markets in the country. According to Adam's Liquor Handbook 2001, Virginia lags behind only California, Texas and Florida in bourbon sales. That's right, we even beat Kentucky - although the bluegrass state does boast top bourbon sales per capita.

With Norfolk/Newport News at No. 20 and Richmond at No. 41 on the Adam's list of top U.S. metropolitan bourbon markets, we've proven that the southern tradition of bourbon drinking is no myth. Chris Morris, master distiller at Brown-Forman Corp. of Louisville, Ky., says, "What makes Richmond and Norfolk notable is that they're not New York City or Atlanta, yet they have their places in the top 50 bourbon markets in the country."

Bourbon originated in the 18th century in Bourbon County, Ky., which, technically speaking, was part of Virginia when the settlers first began distilling corn into whiskey. Distilleries sprouted up all over the country, and bourbon eventually became the beverage of choice for such prominent Americans as Abraham Lincoln, Henry Clay and Mark Twain. From 1920 to 1933, many distilleries were shut down due to Prohibition. When Prohibition was repealed, some states, including Virginia, began controlling alcohol sales through the Department of Alcoholic Beverage Control (ABC). In 1964, bourbon was recognized as the official spirit of America. "Now," says Morris, "all bourbon worldwide must originate in the United States."

Moonshine aside, bourbon by definition must contain 51 percent corn and must be aged in new, charred oak barrels for at least two years. Morris says the best bourbon is made by using a new barrel every time, which is the chosen method for Brown-Forman. He also recommends bourbons that are aged four to six years, a characteristic of bourbons such as Early Times, Old Forester and Woodford Reserve, which are produced in his distillery.

According to the Virginia ABC, the top-selling bourbon brands in Virginia (based on 2001 sales) are Jim Beam, Wild Turkey 101, Evan Williams Black, Maker's Mark and Virginia Gentleman, which is produced by Bowman Distillery just outside of Fredericksburg. Aside from Bowman, Virginia claims three other legal distilleries.

As for modern trends in bourbon consumption, they seem to be merely old trends revisited. In the '70s and '80s, the Old Fashioned and the Manhattan went out of vogue while "Jack (Daniels) and Coke" became fashionable. According to Morris, "In recent years, the old bourbon drinks seem to have made a comeback in chic clubs and restaurants." Perhaps they add a movie star-esque aura of sophistication, or maybe they just have become "retro."

Regardless, Virginians enjoy their bourbon. Just spend a day at the Strawberry Hill Races and see for yourself.

- Elizabeth Thalhimer

Return to Virginia Business - May 2002


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