The enchantment of Charleston

by Sue Poveromo
for Virginia Business Options
December 2006

My first few visits to Charleston, S.C., were like falling in love. It didn't really matter whether I was walking along the water, eating at a restaurant or wandering through an art gallery, I just couldn't get enough of the city. During my visits, I felt more alive. There seemed to be a palpable enthusiasm among the residents. I think it's a genuine excitement that comes from experiencing a place that's, at once, classy, creative and down-to-earth.

After each trip, I would return to Richmond, my hometown, and long for Charleston. As with any new relationship, I thought about it and talked about it - often.

Eventually, I found a job in Charleston and moved to the area in late 2005. After more than one year here, I love living in a city where I often feel like I'm on vacation: walking on the beach after work, returning to favorite scenic spots and continuing to discover new experiences.

This city offers the relaxing appeal of a seaside town, yet it's filled with world-class amenities. Known for its Southern hospitality, Charleston is also famous for its restaurants, shops, beaches, museums and art galleries. Travel & Leisure Magazine recently ranked Charleston as the fourth best travel destination in the United States and Canada. It is outranked only by New York, San Francisco and Chicago - so we're talking the best in the South.

For a mix of tourist treats with a local twist, read on.

During many weekends, there are festivals that fill the streets and the restaurants of Charleston. Check the visitors' bureau Web site (www.charlestoncvb.com) for upcoming events that may be of particular interest to you. And I can't emphasize enough - book early. Hotels fill up and tickets sell out quickly.

Lodging alternatives
Charleston offers several lodging options that allow you to savor the city. Three area hotels, for example, recently were listed among the top 100 in the U.S. and Canada - Wentworth Mansion, Charleston Place and The Sanctuary. The first two are in the heart of the Historic District. I particularly like the atmosphere of the Thoroughbred Club in Charleston Place where you can enjoy live piano music while enjoying appetizers, drinks and dessert. On a recent visit there, one of my friends was particularly impressed with their selection of single-barrel bourbons. (Rates at Wentworth Mansion are $275 to $435 a night for rooms and $465 to $705 for suites. Charges at Charleston Place are $249 to $599 for rooms and $639 to $1,800 for suites. Rates vary depending on the season and type of room.)

The Sanctuary is 30 minutes from downtown at Kiawah Island Golf Resort. It's a five-star, luxurious getaway owned by the corporate parent of Richmond's Jefferson Hotel. (Rooms there are $275 to $625.)

Another option for the whole family is renting a posh, beachfront home on the Isle of Palms, about a 20-minute drive from downtown Charleston. A weekly rental for a four-bedroom house may run $5,000. Or choose a smaller one-bedroom oceanview villa at the Wild Dunes Resort for around $2,000. Enjoy golf at your choice of two Tom Fazio-designed courses there.

During frequent four-day visits to Charleston, I stayed in various bed-and-breakfasts. An especially memorable one was actually a small guesthouse with its own pool. If that's more your style, surf the Internet for historic B&Bs. One great source is www.historiccharlestonbedandbreakfast.com.

Diversions: gardens, galleries and golf
When you come to Charleston, you must:
• Walk or jog along the Battery at the tip of the Charleston peninsula (where according to local lore the Ashley and the Cooper rivers join to form the Atlantic Ocean);

• Stroll through Waterfront Park, a 12-acre park along the Cooper River where cotton wharves and warehouses used to stand;

• Take a horse-drawn carriage ride through the Historic District;

• Visit Fort Sumter where the first shots of the Civil War were fired;

• Have drinks on a rooftop terrace along Vendue Street; and

• Take a dinner cruise in Charleston Harbor.

If you are here on a Saturday morning, head for the Farmer's Market in Marion Square. It is a relaxing way to start your day with an omelet or a crepe made to order and a leisurely look at locally made crafts, jewelry and art that rise far above the same-old souvenirs.

Learn about Charleston's long and rich history with a guided walking tour or just wander through the old streets with your camera as you admire the antebellum homes. Be sure to peek through the ornate gates to see the impressive gardens. And, if you're not afraid (I am), take one of the many evening ghost tours available for visiting graveyards and hearing ghostly legends.

Although I've not yet toured all the museums, I can recommend the Gibbes Museum of Art ($9 for adults) and I'm told that the Patriots Point Naval and Maritime Museum is a popular spot for naval history buffs ($15 for adults). The museum features a number of retired ships, including the aircraft carrier Yorktown, a destroyer, a submarine and a Coast Guard cutter. If you plan to visit one of the many popular plantations, Boone Hall is a beautiful one that's an easy drive from downtown. (Admission is $14.50 for adults)

For a shop 'til you drop experience, stroll King Street from Calhoun to Broad for an eclectic mix of boutiques, art galleries and antiques shops. HandPicked is one of my favorite jewelry shops and, when my best friend visits from Richmond, she looks for new outfits at Affordables, a women's clothing store. Other downtown shops include high-quality local retailers such as Berlins clothing for men and women, MP Demetre Jewelers, Bob Ellis for upscale ladies and mens fashion footwear, as well as 319 Men for contemporary clothing and custom tailoring. National retailers, also downtown, include Saks Fifth Avenue and Gucci.

During your shopping excursion, stop along Market Street at the 19th-century City Market to find handcrafted sweetgrass baskets, a longtime tradition that West African descendants are keeping alive in Charleston. Then invest in one or more baskets to take home. (Prices range from $35 to $1,000.)

If you prefer spending your time golfing instead of shopping, drive to any one of the many world-class golf courses available for play from Wild Dunes to Kiawah. All are challenging courses and are described in detail in a free Charleston Area Golf Guide, which can be ordered online.

Getting a taste of Low Country cuisine
As with hotels, make restaurant reservations well ahead. Otherwise, waits can be very long. Plan to taste the local seafood and uniquely Southern Low Country cuisine. No matter where you are in the downtown Historic District, chances are you can walk a few yards into a dining experience you'll remember.

Some of my favorites downtown are Cypress (with thousands of rare wines in a dramatic wall display), S.N.O. B. (Slightly North of Broad) on East Bay Street and 82 Queen (try the she crab soup as well as the barbecued shrimp and grits). Other excellent restaurants include Peninsula Grill, High Cotton, Grill 225 and Magnolias. And if you're just looking for great local food cheap, stand in the line that trails out of Jestine's Kitchen on Meeting Street. Trust me, it will be worth the wait.

I also recommend the Club Habana - Charleston's upscale cigar, wine and martini bar - located above Tinder Box Internationale on Meeting Street.

To find restaurants and bars that may be a little less crowded, with the added benefit of a waterview, consider getting off of the typical tourist track. From the Historic District, cross the Ravenel Bridge (a magnificent sight in itself) to Mount Pleasant and travel a short distance to Shem Creek. Select one of the places along the water and simply relax, have drinks and dinner. Catch a close-up view of the boats and sea birds. If you time it right, you are also likely to catch a breathtaking sunset.

Another venue for awesome sunsets is the Morgan Creek Grill at Isle of Palms Marina. Indoors or out, the water views are wonderful no matter where you sit. Come casual for seafood downstairs or an abbreviated menu and guitar music on The Upper Deck. There's a Sunday brunch I hope to try soon.

For more nightlife options, consult with your concierge or the local listings for area art openings, wine tastings, live music and performances at the Dock Street Theater. To hear the sultry jazz and blues music of popular Charleston singer Ann Caldwell, check her appearance schedule.

Plan ahead for festivals
When is the best time to visit Charleston? Apart from the hot temperatures in mid-summer, there really is no bad time to be here. Springtime is beautiful, breathtaking and busy. But so are the fall and the winter around the holidays.

Here are a few of the special events you'll want to keep in mind in planning a trip:

• Southeastern Wildlife Exposition (Feb. 16-18, 2007) - one of the largest wildlife art and nature events of its kind in the country with original carvings, sculpture, paintings and demonstrations.

• Family Circle Cup (April 7-15, 2007) - women's pro tennis.

• Spoleto Festival (May 25 - June 10, 2007) - More than 100 performances by renowned artists from theater, dance and music.

• Fall Candlelight Tours of Homes & Gardens (late September through late October) - self-guided tours of homes and gardens in historic areas.

Again, I would suggest exploring the calendar of events on the Convention and Visitors Bureau site. Decide what interests you most and make arrangements well in advance. Naturally, the first-class festivals here draw huge crowds but if you stay downtown, you can walk easily and safely to many of the activities.

Just be mindful that no matter when you first experience Charleston, it will be magical. Whether traveling alone, as a couple or with children, you will discover that despite all there is to do, Charleston is a wonderful place to just be … again and again and again.